Tube style belay. The 3 Main Types of Belay Devices 1.

Tube style belay. Dec 5, 2024 · Some other devices allow more rope to slip through before catching, similar to what happens on a regular tube style belay device. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. The most popular modern tube-style device is the Black Diamond ATC (in its various forms), which will make up half our test. Oct 1, 2021 · What Is The Best ATC/Tube Style Device? If you are buying your first belay device we’d recommend either getting an assisted braking device, or a good tube style device with teeth. It’s very light, and it can be used for rappelling as well. Feb 21, 2020 · The Petzl Reverso is one of our favorite belay devices for multi-pitch climbing. They are a cheaper and lighter version of the mechanical style above. Jul 6, 2024 · I use these things every day I go out rock climbing, ice climbing, and in the alpine. Although some people are not happy about this, there are some safety concerns that can be hard… Mar 21, 2024 · Both tube style and mechanical brake assist belay devices can be used for top-roping and lead climbing (as long as your gym doesn’t have specific rules stating otherwise). This compact and durable device is perfect for both indoor and outdoor climbing scenarios. Featuring V-shaped slots on the brake side of the device and ARC technology, the VERSO provides increased control on a wide variety of rope diameters. Jun 16, 2023 · Now with machined windows, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is lighter than ever before. Both require a hand on the brake side of the rope AT ALL TIMES, and all climbers (excluding you bouldering pebble wrestlers) know how to use at least one of these types of belay devices. Which do you prefer? Or do you use something different? #dbmfbk #rockclimbing #visitnc #explorebrevard #discoverthecarolinas #adventure #climbing". Dec 5, 2024 · The Giga Jul takes a standard autoblocking tube-style belay device and adds a slider that provides an assisted brake function. It doesn’t have to be an Air Traffic Controller, similar belay devices for climbing are common. But not all climbers know Tube-Style Devices: The Classic ATC First up, we have the trusty tube-style devices, with the Air Traffic Controller (ATC) leading the pack. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi Product Description Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Aug 24, 2018 · Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. 3 ounces, the GriGri is much heavier than most tube-style belay devices, but it is remarkably light given its size and active assisted-braking performance. Tube-Style Belay Devices Examples: Black Diamond ATC, Petzl Verso Best For: Beginners and general-purpose climbing How It Works: A simple design that allows rope to pass through a V Nov 20, 2023 · Tube-style belay devices are typically the most affordable option available to new climbers. 2 mm, and twin 6. Mar 7, 2025 · Black Diamond's Big Air XP Package pairs a tube-style belay device with a burly locking carabiner, so it's ready to give your friend a catch. FWIW I use my grigri for almost everything and I usually don't carry a second device. The design patent application is filed in accordance with the law. At the time, the Salewa Sticht Plate was at the cutting edge of belay device technology. A friend let me use it on a couple of gym days and it was really intuitive and a nice belay device. The lack of rope slip didn't feel too significant while falling or while catching a fall because rope stretch and attentive belaying provide a soft enough catch. The RockLock has rounded edges to provide smooth feeding of the rope, especially when you’re using an ATC or tube-style belay device. Jan 3, 2024 · Want all climbers to be proficient in tube style belay techniques. . Jun 9, 2023 · Discover the pros and cons of the three major types of belay devices for rock climbing: tube-style, assisted braking, and figure 8 devices. I want this love of learning in my partners. Jul 16, 2014 · *Editor’s Note: This setup is appropriate for standard auto-blocking tube-style belay devices, but there are several unique models on the market that require their own rigging method. Final Thoughts You may never get a solid answer regarding Grigri vs. May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Dec 16, 2022 · The Black Diamond ATC is a standard tube-style device. ATC - the standard tube style belay device. It really shines in multi-pitch situations 355 likes, 74 comments - pisgahclimbingschool on June 28, 2025: "Grigri or a tube-style belay device. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. When used correctly, they will both allow for a belayer to catch a fall, and the climber to be caught and lowered. Mar 1, 2023 · Moving to an ABD-only policy in our facilities will help climbers better mitigate risk in the gym; ABD’s help prevent accidents in a way that older style tube-style/unassisted belay devices cannot do. It is compatible with most rope diameters: single 8. ATC and which is objectively better. There are other assisted tube style devices but IMO the megajul is the best because of its size/weight and its functions (assisted brake, ability to rap with two strands or belay on half ropes). Gym Climber caught up with Jon Lachelt, owner and general manager of Ascent Studio Climbing and Nov 14, 2024 · Belay Devices: Types and Functions Belay devices play a pivotal role in climbing, aiding in rope management and improving safety. Each of these devices operates on the principle of friction, which helps control the rope’s movement during a climb. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. May 19, 2022 · A preferred multi-pitch tube style belay devices also includes a guide mode feature which is an attachment point so they can be used to belay from above at the anchor. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, a secure and confident catch, and controlled lowering. Crafted from high-density aircraft-grade aluminum, the ARC is engineered to keep your rope running smoothly through the device for quick payouts and long rappels. It's the lightest option for this style of device, and if you use skinny ropes, it is likely the best option. Once you get the hang of it, lead belay is so much easier with a Grigri ( you still have to pay attention. I will always bring a grigri OR a megajul. Dec 5, 2024 · Most tubes include two slots to enable you to belay with half and twin ropes and rappel on two strands. Nov 15, 2016 · Black Diamond worked on the Pilot for 18 months to ensure the geometry was perfect for paying out slack, taking in slack, and lowering. TW103307204F2014-12-192014-12-19Tube-style belay device TWD173595S (en) Oct 1, 2020 · As with most belay carabiners, it is HMS (or pear) shaped, which offers a wide gate opening to easily set up your belay device and rope. Feb 21, 2020 · Unlike tube-style devices, where you have to loosen your grip on the rope for it lower, the Pilot requires you to pull back on the device to disengage the camming function. The pear-shaped 'biner's rounded construction and large rope-bearing surface make for smooth Versatile, functional and innovative, the new DMM Pivot is a modern belay device that caters for modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. The sizable basket prevents twists and kinks in the rope. Tube-style devices use the easiest and most basic belay techniques. As a result, this is generally the most common type of belay device To belay with a tube-style, or tubular device, simply pinch a small section of rope, feed the bend of it through one of the holes, and clip a locking carabiner through the loop that appears on the other side. We use these ATC devices because they make belaying easier by creating friction. Reply reply ImChossHound • Reply reply What is the difference between a tube-style device and an assisted braking belay device? Assisted braking devices are classified as either mechanical or geometric and aid in safe belaying by providing extra stopping force via the geometry of the device or a mechanism that grabs the rope in the event of the belayer losing control of the brake strand of the rope. It is an evolution of the Sticht plate's concept by creating more surface area to dissipate heat and the ability to create sharper angles which creates a stronger degree of friction which has greater stopping power. It is a tube style belay device without any special teeth for functionality to assist in braking. But they can be used for all types of climbing, too. This is ideal for lead climbers who wish to belay their partner directly off the anchor after leading a pitch. Aug 5, 2024 · The Redirected Clip-Back Lower provides a smooth lower and the rope will stay twist free if you keep the rope running inline with the belay device. There are no moving parts or levers to operate, making it a user-friendly intro to the world of assisted braking belay devices. Apr 28, 2025 · With a tube-style belay device (e. A slightly larger opening allows easier setup when you "bite" the rope and smoother belay. That just seems ass-backwards to me. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. While all functions work well, the slider is a bit confusing to learn and isn't intuitive, making this device less suitable for handing to a partner without teaching them to use it first. 5 to 10. Dec 5, 2024 · A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device that offers all of the functionality of both tube devices and active assisted braking devices in one compact unit. 2 mm. Essentially, a friction hitch is created when the rope is looped through the carabiner and the tube-style device with a hand on the rope below the device. The 3 Main Types of Belay Devices 1. Jul 6, 2023 · They can provide smooth lowers, multi-functionality, and reliable braking, though. Tube-style belay devices, Camp USA, Black Diamond, and Petzl Just a few holes in a piece of metal While the Munter hitch represented a definite improvement over older belay techniques, it does have a drawback; it is awkward to use when belaying off a harness. Apr 8, 2022 · VERSO is an easy-to-use, tube-style belay device. 5 mm, half 7. Was the GriGri in the dog house because of its high cost? Did rappelling on a single strand give climbers the creeps? Or were there things the ATC could do that the GriGri couldn’t? Here's a breakdown of the main types of belay devices and their features: Types of Belay Devices Tube-Style (ATC): named after Black Diamond's Air Traffic Controller (ATC), these devices are versatile and commonly used. Tube-style devices have room for two bights of rope, and often some teeth in a groove to increase friction when lowering or catching a fall. Suitable for all Nov 17, 2023 · There are quite a few benefits to the ATC belay device and other tube-style belay devices, and for much of climbing history, these were the primary devices used for belaying, lowering, or rappelling. These are just a few of their iterative prototypes Dec 5, 2024 · At 6. Dec 13, 2023 · (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device. In recent years, however, climbing brands have invented more advanced and specified belay rappel devices. Key carabiner terms 1. Here are some popular examples of tube-style brake assist belay devices: Jan 3, 2024 · The ATC climbing device, which stands for Air Traffic Control, is a tube-style belay device, usually with two holes and a plastic-wrapped loop of braided wire connected to the underside. We recommend the Black Diamond ATC Guide as the best manual belay Jun 4, 2025 · What is a tube style belay device? Tube style belay devices are one of the most common styles for belay devices in rock climbing today. Sep 21, 2023 · Manual tube-style belay devices in guide mode are considered “auto-blocking” because they will automatically pinch the climbing rope in case the follower falls. Early belay devices like the figure-8 plate were soon replaced by the popular tube style belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. In typical BD style they developed a variety of iterations before landing on the final design, and then subjected that final design to tons of testing to ensure it works in almost every conceivable condition. This thing feels, feeds and works pretty much like any tube style belay device out there with the addition of what Black Diamond calls "enhanced braking. There are a wide variety of different belay devices on the market today, making it difficult to know which one is the right for you. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. It falls in the middle of the pack in terms of weight and diameter of ropes with which it is compatible Aug 6, 2021 · Periodically, belay devices come along that change climbing the way the iPhone changed cell phones. Mar 9, 2016 · The modern belay device comes in two basic styles: tube & camming. Aug 26, 2021 · ATC The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. Feel the only reason brake assist devices exist is because of a lack of proper training. Attached to the harness, this ‘guide tube’ belay device can be also used to belay from the ground or rappel from above like any other tube device, which makes it one of the more versatile pieces of kit climbers can carry Sep 20, 2021 · While correct belay technique is essential, having the best belay device for your needs definitely helps. Sep 24, 2019 · Optimal Single Rope Diameter: An assortment of tube style belay devices. Feb 22, 2020 · Tube style devices require a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the climber, which can be fatiguing. Made of lightweight aluminum, it features a slightly enlarged rope opening to make rope “bite” easier during belaying. Jul 29, 2019 · For little additional cost and weight you can carry a tube style belay device that can also serve in “plaquette” mode. Feb 21, 2020 · The Petzl Verso is a classic tube-style manual belay device with additional friction grooves on one side and is the lightest device in our review. Nov 13, 2007 · The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. ;The colors revealed in the drawings are not part of this design. A Tubular Belay device Also called a "tube", this type of device generally has a tubular or rectangular shape. They’re lightweight and versatile but don’t have assisted braking. An ATC needs to be clipped into the harness with a locking carabiner, the rope then runs through the bottom of the device, around the carabiner, and then back out through the top Apr 24, 2024 · Tube-style, Assisted Braking Belay Devices: These consist of a tube-shaped device through which the rope is threaded. This is one reason for the popularity of the active assisted devices, or passive assisted devices that use much the same motion to belay, but remove much of the effort of holding a hanging climber in place. ” Oct 8, 2018 · The Petzl VERSO is an ultra-light and affordable tube-style belay device. Passive Assisted Braking Devices exaggerate the “grabbing” quality of any aperture or tube style belay device. Lightweight, it can be used for both belaying and rappelling, providing good control over the rope. The device was invented by Fritz Sticht and Hermann Huber as a “braking device for a rope, especially for mountaineers. 9 to 9. The ATC XP features internal grooves to boost friction, helping to relieve some pressure from our brake hand, and two slots for use with twin and half ropes. Whether you are a gym climber, trad climber, sport climber, alpine climber or all of the above, our goal here at The Adventure Junkies is to help you pick the best belay device and get you one step closer to your next adventure. The ATC’s lightweight and minimalist design relies on two slots for belaying or rappelling with two ropes. (Some devices have grooves on one side that make braking easier, so ensure the brake strand is coming out on that side. This tube-style device features high-friction grooves to assist with braking and catching, as well as two slots for doubled-rope or two-line rappels. If we were solely choosing one of these passive belay devices for top roping, we'd choose the Pilot since we liked how it lowers the best. Jan 15, 2018 · It was intuitive: The ATC Pilot works in much the same way that a standard tube-style belay device does, with the added benefit of assisted braking. Oct 23, 2023 · Tube-style devices are “passive” braking devices that rely on the use of a brake hand on the rope, below the device, to arrest a fall. The choice of device depends on climbing style, experience, and personal preference. However, different belay devices offer different geometries which means that they have different sweet spots when Feb 22, 2025 · Details Hardwearing tube-style belay device for big walls and alpine routes Aluminum housing delivers lightweight durability Steel inserts increase longevity and heat resistance V-shaped grooves help create more friction when braking Auto-locking guide mode accommodates two climbers Appropriate for rope diameters 7. Common types of manual devices include the figure-eight, tube-style, and plate devices. The ATC and other tube style devices were a significant leap ahead of the classic hip belay, but represent just one point in the continued evolution of rock climbing technology. I actually think they are putting themselves at risk of litigation by requiring older technology. Nov 6, 2022 · The tube-style device, assisted braking devices, and other belay devices have changed the face of what it means to belay. The Sticht Plate was one. Other belay devices can be generally divided into two large groups – figure 8 rappel devices and tube style devices. Mar 12, 2025 · At the gym, some older, fatter, fuzzy ropes required the tube-style belay device method to overcome the added friction. Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. My current gym now requires any type of auto locking device because humans make mistakes and get complacent. It generally performs as well as other similar belay devices, with similar amounts of bite when catching lead falls and similar amounts of friction when pulling slack through the device when belaying a follower. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. Dec 1, 2023 · Petzl GriGri – #1 Most Owned Mechanical Device We talked at length in our post on the most owned and wanted tube style belay devices about how Black Diamond has cemented the word ATC into the climbing zeitgeist to mean any tube style belay device, and it’s not uncommon to hear climbers referring to mechanical belay devices as a GriGri. Apr 27, 2021 · Traditional tube-style devices like the Guide don’t have any assisted braking (except when belaying from the top), but they will belay in all possible scenarios. 5 - 10. Gate: The spring-loaded pivoting piece opposite the spine. Some people find them harder to control while lowering versus the mechanical devices that have a separate lowering handle. Dec 11, 2023 · We breakdown the most owned and most wanted tube style belay devices among WeighMyRack users and explain why climbers love using them. They consist of a simple tube with slots for the rope. Feb 22, 2020 · But selecting one of the modern tubular or assisted style belay devices is a great place to start. Jan 4, 2024 · The tube belay device has continued to evolve over the years to include models designed to be used belaying from above the climber. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. Jun 23, 2023 · Most tube-style belay devices (like an ATC) work for both single and double-strand rappels. 1 to 9. Me being me, I've acquired quite a bit of these things over the years a Jan 9, 2024 · We'll explore "How to Belay: The Ultimate Guide to Belaying" in this extensive guide, with a particular emphasis on the tube-style device. Dec 22, 2023 · The Transition from Plates-Style to Tube-Style Belay Devices Eventually, sometime in the 1970s, the first belay plate became popular. The two extra holes are for belaying and lowering in guide mode. This is an extremely useful feature for guiding or on multi-pitch climbs where the leader has to ‘bring up’ their belayer. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. These are your classic, no-frills belay devices that rely on the friction between the rope and the device itself to control the speed of the rope. I am referring to the hand movements. 5mm Item #MAMU58Z Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. Some examples of assisted brake Jun 1, 2025 · The Origin and History of Belay Devices - page 2 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. " The ridiculously simple engineering has enabled BD to create an assisted braking device at a fraction of the price and weight of the "mouse trap" builders. Here, we review and recommend the best assisted-braking belay devices for rock climbing. Named after its designer Fritz Sticht, the device was a precursor of the tube-style belay devices we still use today. A List of the 10 Best Belay Devices For this list of the 10 best belay devices, we chose products that have the highest ratings and the highest number of reviews that our team was able to read and synthesize. The thicker and fuzzier a rope is, the more friction that’s developed through a belay device. It uses a standard tube-style design with an extra clip in point to orient the device perfectly for use in auto-block mode belaying a second off the anchor. You need to learn how to belay with a class and test people on how to belay properly. May 13, 2025 · Type of Belay Device: Active assisted breaking Lead Belay Mode?: No Guarantee: 3 years First Impressions If you’ve spent your entire climbing career until this point only using a tube-style belay device, like the Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Reverso, the first thing you’ll notice is that the GriGri is large – really large. I second the pilot for an alternate belay device aside from a tube/atc. A tube style device is considered essential for outdoor climbing, particularly when rappelling / multi-pitch climbing. This article covers everything from setup to lowering the climber, so it's perfect for beginners and experienced climbers alike. In the late 1980s, Petzl Jul 11, 2024 · We break down the best belay devices on the market, from assisted-braking standouts like Petzl’s ubiquitous Grigri to simple and reliable tube-style options Sep 14, 2020 · It’s definitely the best beginner belay device with a tube-style design and you’ll see it on most experienced climbers’ harnesses. The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. Jan 17, 2020 · Recently, several gyms have banned the use of standard tube-style belay devices for lead climbing. This includes most ATC devices and tube-style belay devices in the market. Jun 12, 2024 · Tube-style belay devices are one of the most traditional forms of belay devices, known for their simplicity and effectiveness. Larger and heavier, choose pear-shaped carabiners for a single belay or for anchors. May 29, 2018 · Fall fast, and the Wild Country Revo kicks in, catching you. With it, you can belay or rappel making it suitable for climbing and canyoneering. Also, it is much heavier than other autoblocking devices, making it less suitable Sep 16, 2021 · The DMM Pivot is a tube-style belay device with auto-blocking capabilities. ATC-XP - If you put the brake side of the rope through the teeth, you get some extra friction, if you put it through the non-teeth side, you get the same friction as an ATC. This is a crusty take. This method works with any tube style belay devic… The Neo-Sat Belay Device is a modified "tube" style belay device. g. Jun 28, 2018 · Used in conjunction with a climbing rope, common dynamic belays use tube-style devices like the Petzl Verso and Omega Pacific SBG II. - A slightly larger opening allows easier setup when you "bite" the rope and smoother belay. Dec 22, 2022 · With only one rope, added safety can be achieved by incorporating an assisted braking tube-style device, like the Black Diamond Pilot, without sacrificing a smooth belay. The “grabbing” effect is so severe, it effectively brakes the rope, providing the belayer with a backup. Classic (or “Tube-Style”) Belay Devices These are the most common — you’ll see them at the gym, on sport routes, and in multi-pitch climbs. Feb 3, 2023 · Are aTCs moving out and ABDs the new norm? Many climbing gyms have banned devices that do not have assisted braking. ) May 4, 2012 · Tube-style devices may have slots for one or two ropes; double-slotted devices can be used to belay two climbers and perform double-rope rappels. Mar 20, 2025 · Manual belay devices are the most traditional type of belay equipment, utilized for their simplicity and reliability. Often referred to as ATCs, these devices operate on the principle of friction created by the rope running through curved slots. The Neo Sat Belay Device by Fusion Climb is a modified tube-style belay device designed for smooth rope control and fast setup. Each of these two belay devices have its own principle on which they operate, and the designs of a many of other belay devices are usually variations on theme set by them. Feb 15, 2024 · Tube Devices with Guide Mode Guides and multi-pitch climbers are the main users of this feature and they tend to prefer to carry a tube style device with guide mode. The specific design allows the rope to glide smoothly through the device and reduces wear. It is also the simplest, and the most affordable. Keep reading to learn about the most iconic belay device– the Black Diamond ATC. The performance of a belay device is heavily influenced by the diameter and condition of the climbing rope used. I had to push rope into the NEOX from the brake side to execute a quick feed. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. Learn how to choose the best belay devices for climbing, including key factors for selecting belay equipment and climbing belay devices to ensure safety and performance. If you are looking for a good ATC style belay device, this is it: Cypher ARC Rappel and Belay Device. Tube-style belay devices are often used for multi-pitch trad climbing because they’re light, simple, and reliable. Read on for our take on the nuanced assisted-locking belay device, which differs considerably from the GriGri and tube-style belay Jul 11, 2012 · Fusion Climb Neo Sat Aluminum Tube Belay Device Gold - The Neo-Sat Belay Device is a modified "tube" style belay device. A running belay is a variant of the dynamic belay in which the top anchor point is attached to a horizontal cable using a trolley. ) So, I started asking questions. Jun 25, 2025 · These are great as belay carabiners, especially if belaying with a Munter hitch or tube-style belay device. Jun 19, 2023 · Belayers around the world also began to experiment with new belay tools that redirected the braking position 180 degrees—the most common early example was the Sticht plate, but the same principle applies to today’s tube-style devices. , ATC or Reverso), thread a bight of the rope through either slot in the device. Fortunately, ABDs are becoming more affordable with the advent of new technology Belay devices come in various designs, including tube-style devices, assisted-braking devices, and figure-eight devices. In this article, we’ll describe the process of rappelling with a tubular device, as this is the most common and versatile rappel device. Tube-style devices require complete manual braking from the belayer. One thing I have heard is people being fine using a Grigri for top rope belay, but then want to use a tube for lead belay. It costs very little and last a long time. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. sav srlbdxe czwvh lwmt bmku iimljk kaip skydlua oclgzcx swfd