Best carabiner for grigri reddit. Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. All things climbing carabiners demystified! Oct 12, 2023 · You have options: Pear/HMS, Offset D, D, Oval, Semi-Circle, 3D, Oval Link. Delap often uses the GriGri in a rappelling environment, but he notes that doing so wears your ropes For top-roping indoors, all you need is a harness (any harness will do, so long as it's by a reputable company and fits), a belay device, and a locking carabiner. , the Petzl attaché has a pear shape -- which end should face my harness and why? In the video you linked carabiners were still breaking at over 1000 lbf in absolutely horrible leaver or nose hook configurations. So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. I feel like the search for a good locking carabiner that's actually light, durable, and doesn't freeze is almost a hopeless endeavor. Belay carabiner through top rope loop, NOT belay loop Carabiner is not locking. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. ) Do you guys have any ideas on how to personalize climbing equipment? Some of my friends have gotten some of their stuff stolen, so I thought the more blatant it is that it's mine the less likely it will be stolen. Safe climbing all! Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The most ironic part is, I now have a keeper cord for my GriGri. Apr 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? Here is a good video highlighting the two common methods of belay with a grigri. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. I use Jul2 indoors and outdoors on sport single pitch climbs. It doesn’t matter what shape biner you use for an anchor, as long as it locks in some way. Dec 13, 2023 · The Best Device for Rappelling The GriGris biggest hangup for Axel Kochendörfer, a Germany-based mountain rescuer, is its inability to offer a two-strand rappel. Clepsydra or so is it. And yes we are scared of falling. It’s been great. It hits the key marks most climbers seek What brand in particular. There's a sport version (one rope, functionally, its a grigri) and the alpine version, which though called "alpine" works well for all climbing. May 4, 2021 · Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. I was taught how to do an anchor on a single sling with four carabiners. What do you think? Closed• total votes GriGri's are safe to use in icy conditions GriGri's are an accident waiting to happen in icy conditions Voting . Metolius Steel Auto Lock Carabiner: The Best for Top Rope Anchor Masterpoints Important Specs 5 May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. I use sm’d carabiners primarily for my tether setup and for my 3rd hand when rappelling. I got it to have an assistant braking device for outdoor lead climbing. I love this device, it’s light, small, ergonomically designed and intuitive if you’ve used ATC before. The disadvantage is that because the load is shared more evenly between the spine side and the gate side (which is not a See full list on climbernews. My advice is: Get a mammut smart, a petzl grigri, a beal birdie or whatever other assisted belay device you can find because with them you will be able to use with any carabiner and virtually any type of rope (8mm to 11mm) in any condition (Old or New) without having to worry if the device will actually work. The U-bend of the GriGri is rounder, so lowering a climber requires way more hand strength/friction applied to the break strand. While that's scary low since you could absolutely generate that in a pretty normal lead fall, it's still 5x-8x a normal bodyweight GriGri with a Petzel Freino for the carabiner if you have the money. In my opinion best of geometric assisted devices on the market right now. I have the same carabiner, and enjoy its mechanism while cleaning with a leash outside. Personalizing Climbing Equipment (GriGri, Carabiners etc. I got a DMM Ceros carabiner to prevent the possibility of cross-loading while belaying. Does anyone have recommendations for carabiners, these are the ones that I am looking at right now. 96K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. With the G+ that can be mitigated. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. Hi all, with the release of the Petzl Neox I've seen a lot of discussion about the best application for different devices and was surprised to learn some people even use a different device for belaying a leader vs follower. Jun 21, 2023 · Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025 Comparison Table 1. The Mega Jul is best for rappelling, however overall for a singular device to take outside, the Mega Jul is best. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. Nite Ize LSB3-01-R6 S-Biner SlideLock Dual Locking Carabiner, Size #3, Stainless https://a. May 24, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. If I were buying carabiners all over again, I'd get 2-3 round stock carabiners for anchor masterpoints and belaying/rappelling, plus a few lighter I-beam carabiners (like the Spirit or Sm'd) for other applications. I know this from experience: I learned to lead belay on an ATC, and I loaded a GriGri backwards the first time I tried using one to lead belay (after a basic how-to weeks before). Petzl Attache: The Best Overall Important Specs 2. I have had them break when used by inexperienced climbers, and as such I do not trust them nearly as much as a Petzl Rig. Now that im looking more closely, it looks like there are no uiaa markings on the carabiners ive seen listed in amazon. Gri-Gri left handed belay. Buy a tube-style belay device and learn how to use it. Second rappel can be set up only after the rope has been fully retrieved. Also, check out the Quad anchor, which seems to be the new standard. One thing you might consider if you want to be extra safe is placing one of your devices on the harness tie-in points instead of the belay loop, passing a carabiner/quicklink through them. As for carabiners, there honestly aren’t too many important differences—pick ones that feel good in your hand, and ideally don’t get the same draws as your partners. com While there are lots of different belay devices on the market for climbers, the GRIGRI has established itself as one of the safest and most popular options. Most discussions refer to belaying and not any rappelling scenarios. I use a Black Diamond Gridlock screwgate carabiner as my belay biner. It’s important to mention that these kind of devices work best with dedicated belaying carabiner. In neither of these methods do you need to swap the direction of your hand on the brake rope so I don't really understand your trouble or how you must be holding the grigri Is there a particular carabiner you like to use for the grigri or would any locking carabiner do the job? Got a used grigri, anything I should look for where it wouldn’t be 100% to use anymore? A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. Here are our in-depth reviews. Check out the poll and feel free to 4 days ago · Take a look at the top 10 picks for the best belay and rappelling carabiners for your partner so you can have the best rappelling and belaying experience possible. Hey all. Added safety and not really much more expensive. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. To me, it looked like a better built Pilot at $15 cheaper, so I gave it a shot. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. While the ATC easily accommodates two rope strands for belays, the GriGri requires a bit more finesse to handle such an environment. HMS carabiners are for belay devices where the carabiner makes contact with the rope, grigri isn't one of those. The best carabiner for most people is CAMP Photon Wire. Petzl now strongly recommends the second "new" method, so if you're learning new techniques go for this one rather than the"classic" method. 1. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. Most dissatisfying thing about magnetron is the inaudible response of the gate when I try to click it. Also, can the grigri be used for rappelling as well? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A wiredog369 • Jun 10, 2019 · DMM makes some of the highest-quality and best climbing hardware—period. Best lanyard is Petzl Connect Adjust, then there’s the Metolius PAS. Mar 1, 2023 · To maximize the usage of the Grigri, it must be paired with the right carabiner for safety and protection of the climbers. The grigri is over hyped. Extending the stance with a GriGri: Step 1: Leader arrives at (or builds) the anchor, places a locking carabiner, places the lead rope into this locking carabiner, and locks the carabiner! (This is Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. Slight detail (and correct me if I’m wrong) but the carabiner gate should be facing left ie away from the right hand moving up and down. After many years of using an ATC I finally switched over to a GriGri for rock climbing. Aggregated reviews for carabiners are generally meaningless, especially when for an established brand like Black Diamond. Jan 28, 2023 · Today’s new carabiners have come a long way since their original use as part of a climber’s tool kit! The smart is my favourite belay device. Dec 4, 2020 · An incredibly awesome in-depth beginner's guide to rock climbing carabiners. As the heading says what’s in your climbing bag? Do you even use a bag? If not why? I see some ppl come in with just shoes and a chalk bag. The advantage of a pear shaped biner is that is has a large area for holding ropes, which is useful if you need to tie a clove hitch to it, or use it for a double rope rappel. When using a GriGri with a Grilock please make sure to use the small end for the GriGri and big end for the harness. Its basically the love child of an ATC and a grigri. I always click the carabiners as double check after attaching them regardless of the locking type. Finally getting involved in a great subreddit, many thanks to those that contribute here, it’s proved useful many times! My question: Does anyone here have any recommendations for a good quality carabiner for carrying additional items on the outside of my rucksack, when travelling. . Before reading on, check out the Evening Sends Guide to Choosing a Belay Device. I wasn't paying that much attention to the orientation of the Grigri to the rope and I can't remember if it happened as a result of For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. I'm extremely new to climbing outdoors so it's good to see different anchor types I'm curious what the grigri is for on each of these. It's not a critical decision, both types of carabiners will function perfectly with a Gri-Gri. Which are the best auto-locking biners? : r/climbing r/climbing Current search is within r/climbing Remove r/climbing filter and expand search to all of Reddit Me, I have a little of everything, I have edelrid PetZl Mammut camp: carabiners, quickdraws, belay devices, belts I must admit that recently I have bought a few more edelrid carabiners, so I guess you could say I tend more to go to edelrid than the others But I was wondering what your favourite brand is and why or for what, I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned Clipping the grigri carabiner to another locking carabiner usually allows it to sit flat on flat surfaces. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. It is a good piece of kit and easy to use for beginners. A couple of times I have almost set up improperly with my belay loop and ATC in the same section of the biner. The shape is actually weaker than a standard d shape. Today, thankfully while not on an actual belay, I was playing around with it, and accidently clipped the cam handle of the Grigri behind the retaining clip on the Ceros. The home of Climbing on reddit. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! Standing on casual terrain will increase safety. That’s cool. I keep a simple kit, so here’s what I’d carry to start: 60m rope with ground tarp, one set of draws, 5 locking carabiners (HMS build), a couple of non-locking carabiners, two nylon 120cm slings (usually my PAS), two dyneema 120cm slings (usually to build a quad anchor), two 60cm dyneema slings (other PAS or to extend draws), a prussik cord Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. We set the story straight: why/when to use each carabiner shape so you can get the best carabiner for the job. Top rope is where a GriGri really stands out. Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. ), what is your opinion of the device after using it for a while? I am in the market for a new one, and am wondering which one will be best down the road. You made an excellent choice! What locking carabiners Is everyone using. Using it feels natural and it works well for Jun 18, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. With a gri gri the carabiner doesn't even touch the rope, its simply a connector between harness and gri gri. Is it a solid choice for glacier travel as well or is something like the tried and true microtraxion a better option? Nov 9, 2023 · According to WeighMyRack's user base the most wanted and owned carabiners are from Edelrid, CAMP, Petzl, Grivel, and Black Diamond. It's always closed and never side loaded. Sep 14, 2020 · This carabiner is specifically designed for use with a Grigri and has a couple of cool features that make belaying safer and easier. The metal swivel plate closes snugly on top of it, but everything seems pretty happy. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri Important Specs 3. Any opinions on progress capture pulleys for mountaineering? It seems like lots of climbing forums like the RollnLock pulley but most of the conversation is around solo TR. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Non-locking carabiners Do you have any in your kit and if so, what make and model and how/what do you use them for? I love using some sort of ATC for lead belay personally. We recommend it as the Best Carabiner For Grigri use. Preferably with a threaded / locking clasp. The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. I can top rope with a braking device, lead belay, and rappel with two strands from a singular device Reply reply blairdow • The sm’d can be used most instances you want a locker (though I probably wouldn’t use one with my atc to belay). IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going cock-eyed and crossloading. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. I hear that the grigri petzl is particularly good. The ones I have are twist-lock rated 24 KN closed. I'm having trouble finding an answer to this question. If you have a climbing shop nearby, it's best to try out the carabiner in person. A GRIGRI is only as safe as the carabiner it’s secured to your harness with though, so it’s really important to select one that’s compatible. Our team of climbing experts leverages more than 40 years of combined climbing experience, styling alpine ascents and performing rescues with the Yosemite Search and Rescue. E. So my solution is a potential remedy to compromising your own safety on a münter hitch. Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. I am a Tree Climber exclusively, we use the GriGri for rappels out of trees on recreational climbs. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. The blocking carabiner may fall during recovery. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with an ATC Important Specs 4. 560 votes, 31 comments. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. Anyone have a chance to try this out and get a feel for how the action compares to a GriGri in hand? The ability to set up the device in a vertical position without the use of a carabiner seems a bit gimmicky, and I’m curious if it is actually just a single button release on the brake-hand side. Girl, although difficult to tell from this angle, is likely attractive and therefore not been held to proper scrutiny for most things in her life, therefore more likely to drop climber. This article recommends some of them. I recently started using a Mammut Smart 2. Choice of carabiner for attaching a GRIGRI or NEOX to the harness Warnings Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. In a very rare sequence of events you can undo a screw/locking carabiner and it’s less safe. Luke Asking if anyone has any recommendations for a carabiner for my keychain - specifically, one that's durable and can easily be attached/unattached (I have a rape whistle and some other important goodies on my keychain so I'd need to unclip it quickly, but I'd still like to hook my keychain to my bag or anything else as necessary). Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. In hindsight, Im not sure why i was so assertive that paliston was uiaa rated besides that i may have looked at a photo of a carabiner i thought was paliston and saw a uiaa label and jumped to conclusions. I would say its not the most protective piece for gri gri use though… when i bought my first carabiner to belay, i was told that the shape and size of petzl’s William-screw lock carabiner adds some safety as well as reduced wear while using a gri gri. I have used the am’d carabiners for a quad/magic x anchor but generally I hate using auto locking carabiners for other anchor setups, they can really suck if you’re pumped. In my opinion, it's a good trick to know but not a first-choice strategy. For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. Preferred orientation is to use a small offset d shaped carabiner, not a pear shaped HMS. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A [deleted] • We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Old heads will say use a regular sling or Clove hitch with the rope. Jun 13, 2011 · In reply to ashley1_scott: No, hms biners are wide at the top for taking multiple clove hitches or having more space for the running rope when belaying with a normal device. Thanks in anticipation! I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. Pretty proud of myself for thinking this one up. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Now that ice season is here I am wondering if people use them to belay in the winter. Mar 4, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Nice write up! And I agree -- Sm'D autolockers are the actual best. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. Most carabiners for example are x rayed to check for any micro fractures, if any are present the carabeiner is discarded. I can't find a spec on the strength of the setup on the right Got one to belay, the grigri can't move I'm any bad direction. And the DMM Ceros gets my vote for the best locking carabiner to use with a GriGri. This carabiner must be inspected before any further use. But I need someone to recommend me something else as well. In fact, Petzl suggests that you don’t use an HMS carabiner. My favorite carabiner for a lanyard is the twist lock Petzl Sm’D. As someone who pretty much uses the grigri2 for everything, I found this interesting and want to know what r/tradclimbing uses. With a large quick link, risk of poor carabiner positioning and/or stuck rope. Personally I love my DMM Pivot—it's overkill for top-roping, but spend the extra $10 now and you'll avoid having to buy a new device once you get into multipitch. Got to try this out and really enjoyed it: Belays almost identically to GRIGRI 2 Easier to feed slack quickly Can be used with or without belay carabiner When used without it sit closer to harness so easier to feed long pulls of slack and never cross loads Nice addition to the world of belay devices! First one I’d consider using instead of GRI. You can’t cross load this carabiner, and it is super helpful when lowering heavy climbers cuz you can easily add friction to the rope by passing it through the side. My old harness also had a very wide belay loop, which made the GridLock sit very awkwardly on it, since the bottom of the biner was narrower than the harness. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. This pic from the instruction manual shows my normal setup (left) and my accidental setup (right). All these extra tests and discarding of product adds mainhours and additional expense hence the higher cost. It even saved me from a sketchy rappel in the dark without a rap device at EPC shortly after I installed it. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. Anyone who ones an assisted locking belay device (grigri, click-up, mega-jul, cinch, etc. I make one with a 180cm I didn't have a locking biner for my GriGri, so I'm using a keyring. co/d/3bFkkAA These are cool, but im guessing he wants whatever 70$ one it is because he thinks that ones cool. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. My worry is that they would not handle frozen/wet ropes well. Here are our in-depth reviews! We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Harness has to be a full body harness as body belts are banned as of 1998. 0, with the idea that it’s cheaper than a GRIGRI and “safer” than a normal ATC XP. So, moral of the story. I’ve was wondering about those. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. And one that isn’t the size of my face. What's my best setup for this purpose? Most I get is that the carabiners have to be rated at least 16kn right? but it has to have a osha cert on it? or could it be a REI carabiner. Since there's more than one way to skin a cat: to tether my Grigri, I put a 3mm loop through the carabiner hole in the body of the Grigri. oitlw sbzt hifwo hqsb ospu vdsddg rbkqt dyqdxkr gkiblp yxum